Forum Index > Projects > Clock Kits
 Red ring problems
 |  Printable Version
By: Anonymous: Urza9814 () on Saturday, January 02 2010 @ 10:18 PM PST (Read 4307 times)  
Anonymous: Urza9814

Ok, I'm in the process of building my bulbdial clock, but I'm having some problems after adding the red ring. Everything worked fine before adding it, and it got to the point where I even completely de-soldered the red ring, and everything worked fine again. But when the red ring is present, it not only doesn't work, but it throws off the blue ring as well.

Specifically, the red LEDs above the 4:00 and 5:00 positions do not light. And the blue LEDs numbered D*6 and D6* do not light, but instead cause one of the red LEDs to light (i.e. when blue LED D65 is supposed to light, it instead lights the red LED over the 11:00 position). I've checked and re-checked the solder joints between the rings and they all appear perfect. I've also checked the solder joints on the main board and can't seem to find any problems there, though I could potentially be missing something.

I'm assuming that the 6 in the numbers of the blue LEDs means they're connected to the LED6 jumper, which also connects to the two red LEDs that won't light (and only those two), but that jumper seems to be connected fine, and I've managed to trace it all the way back to the chip (to the 6th pin in from the edge on the bottom - maybe it connects somewhere else too?) and according to my multimeter the connection is fine all the way through - and even if it wasn't, I don't understand how a bad connection would cause the blue LEDs to light red LEDs and only fail when the red ring is attached. So I'm completely out of ideas. Anyone have any suggestions, or at least something to help narrow my search?





       
   
By: Anonymous: Urza9814 () on Sunday, January 03 2010 @ 12:06 AM PST  
Anonymous: Urza9814

Ah! So as I was looking at it I noticed that the metal inside one of the LEDs was a slight browish color. I replaced it and it improved slightly. Replaced the other problem red LED with a blue one and it now works perfectly. Now I just have to find another red LED...

I must have screwed up somewhere when assembling this I guess and shorted something out - I mean the odds of getting two bad LEDs has got to be pretty low - and the odds of getting two bad LEDs and ending up connecting them to the same line...that's gotta be one in a billion.

Side note: Replacing LEDs after the whole thing has been put together is a HUUUGE pain Frown





       
   
By: Windell (offline) on Sunday, January 03 2010 @ 12:43 AM PST  
Windell

I was in the middle of a longer post here, but I see that you've updated. What you were seeing would be explained well if those two LEDs were simply missing-- sounds like they were somehow damaged and went open-- not obvious how.

Please contact us through the webstore directly about this; we'll get you replacement LEDs that match yours.

>Side note: Replacing LEDs after the whole thing has been put together is a HUUUGE pain

Not *too* bad except on the green ring. If you hold the LED with tweezers/needlenose pliers and rock them back and forth, melting one pad at a time. I *really* don't recommend removing the rings under any circumstances.


Windell H. Oskay
drwho(at)evilmadscientist.com
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/

Forum Evil Scientist
Evil Scientist

Status: offline

Registered: 06/15/06
Posts: 1932
Sunnyvale, CA

Profile Email Website  
   
By: Anonymous: Urza9814 () on Sunday, January 03 2010 @ 10:42 AM PST  
Anonymous: Urza9814

"Not *too* bad except on the green ring. If you hold the LED with tweezers/needlenose pliers and rock them back and forth, melting one pad at a time. I *really* don't recommend removing the rings under any circumstances."

Yea, that's what I've been doing. My pliers aren't quite up to it though - they keep slipping off the LEDs. I managed to get new ones in though. I'm using one of the blues for now. I think I'm gonna check if Radioshack might have any of the right type of LEDs first - I have to go there today or tomorrow anyway. I doubt they will, but it's worth a shot - I'd rather just get something now than wait for it to ship Smile





       
   
By: Anonymous: cwd42 () on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 02:18 PM PST  
Anonymous: cwd42

Hi,
Just got my kit assembled and the whole red ring does not work, both the blue and green ones work fine. I have re-melted each joint to remove the possibility of a dry joint. Any ideas?





       
   
By: Windell (offline) on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 02:26 PM PST  
Windell

Just got my kit assembled and the whole red ring does not work, both the blue and green ones work fine. I have re-melted each joint to remove the possibility of a dry joint. Any ideas?

Check R10 and board-connecting jumper LED10. All of the red LEDs are driven through those two lines-- the problem is most likely to be there, or at the pin of the chip that connects to them.


Windell H. Oskay
drwho(at)evilmadscientist.com
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/

Forum Evil Scientist
Evil Scientist

Status: offline

Registered: 06/15/06
Posts: 1932
Sunnyvale, CA

Profile Email Website  
   
By: Anonymous: cwd42 () on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 03:16 PM PST  
Anonymous: cwd42

Checked those two positions and they seem fine. Getting voltage on the pad of jumper 10 on the red board, although it changes (expected due to charlieplexing?) still no LED's light on the red board.





       
   
By: Windell (offline) on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 03:29 PM PST  
Windell

* Try touching one of your spare blue or green LEDs across the pins of the LEDs installed on the red ring-- see if it lights up anywhere.

* Try resetting defaults.

* Do you have the RGB kit, and if so, are you sure that the resistor at R10 is the correct (different) value?

* Sounds like you have a multimeter. With power OFF, check continuity between each of the vertical jumper pads on the red ring (above LED 1 ... LED 10) and see (a) if any are connected to each other, or (b) if any are *not* connected to their corresponding resistor, at least on one end.

*Are you using the standard power supply?


Windell H. Oskay
drwho(at)evilmadscientist.com
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/

Forum Evil Scientist
Evil Scientist

Status: offline

Registered: 06/15/06
Posts: 1932
Sunnyvale, CA

Profile Email Website  
   
By: Anonymous: cwd42 () on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 03:54 PM PST  
Anonymous: cwd42

Sorted! seems I somehow managed to disable the red ring in the software, as a reset brought it back on. For future referance how did I do this?





       
   
By: Windell (offline) on Friday, January 08 2010 @ 04:02 PM PST  
Windell

The color balance can be adjusted-- the assembly guide describes this feature, and the "defaults reset" feature is specifically there because of this. Smile


Windell H. Oskay
drwho(at)evilmadscientist.com
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/

Forum Evil Scientist
Evil Scientist

Status: offline

Registered: 06/15/06
Posts: 1932
Sunnyvale, CA

Profile Email Website  
   



 All times are PDT. The time is now 11:39 AM.
Normal Topic Normal Topic
Locked Topic Locked Topic
Sticky Topic Sticky Topic
New Post New Post
Sticky Topic W/ New Post Sticky Topic W/ New Post
Locked Topic W/ New Post Locked Topic W/ New Post
View Anonymous Posts 
Able to Post 
Filtered HTML Allowed 
Censored Content 

Evil Mad Scientist Forum Archives — Read only!

Please visit our new forums for new discussions.


DIY Hardware for Electronic Art


The Original Egg-Bot Kit


Octolively
Interactive LED kits


Meggy Jr RGB
LED matrix game
development kit.


Business-card sized
AVR target boards


Peggy 2
LED Pegboard kits

My Account






Lost your password?